We showed up to Taroko National Park with just one goal – to hike as much as possible. After asking our homestay for recommendations, they said we had to check out Dali, the mountain village where their family had lived before Taroko was converted into a national park. While it wasn’t anywhere on our radar before the recommendation, we’re so glad we went and it turned out to be our favorite hike in the area.
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HOW TO GET THERE
- Straight across from the Taroko Visitors’ Center, you’ll see a large white staircase.
- Take the staircase up and head toward Dekalun Trail.
- Get ready to climb.
The hike started (as so many Taiwanese hikes do), as a long and daunting staircase. As we climbed higher and higher, the forest got thicker and thicker and we were soon surrounded by a variety of birds, bugs and the occasional frog. Our heart rates quickly skyrocketed as we climbed stair after stair, slowly and steadily conquering the mountain. While we were so happy that this side of the trail was protected from the sun, we could still feel ninety degree, sauna-like heat beating down on us, so we were completely drenched within minutes. Just as we thought that we must be getting to the top of this intense climb, we would come across another staircase that was somehow steeper than the one we had just summited. Fortunately, the never-ending staircases were frequently interrupted by rest areas with great views of the ocean, which we happily took advantage of. Although this section of the hike is just about two kilometers, it took us over an hour and a half to complete.
After the staircase ended, we found ourselves at a slightly more manageable uphill portion of the hike. While it was a bit easier than the stairs, it was still fairly difficult and we had to take it really slow as we continued upwards. The stairs and this uphill combined gain a total of 2400 feet in elevation over three miles, so it was pretty rough and we definitely thought about quitting multiple times.
Just as we were about to give up and head back to the car, we reached the trail’s highest point and cheerfully began our descent into Dali Village. Walking downhill felt euphoric after all of the climbing. This feeling of euphoria was emphasized by the landscape, which had gradually transformed from a misty, thick rainforest to a sunny, pleasant grassland surrounded by towering mountains.
We soon found ourselves at the site of the Dali police station, which overlooked the entire valley. We stood there for awhile reading about the history of the area and taking in the beauty around us. Although this village was once home to many Truku people (one of the many aboriginal tribes indigenous to Taiwan), only two families remain, so the once-populated buildings are now only tourist attractions. This made the village both extremely serene and a bit eerie, as we stared at the abandoned buildings in complete silence
We wandered further into the valley to have this profound silence broken by two yappy dogs running full speed toward us. We then saw their owner, who greeted us warmly and invited us to sit down. After giving us a taste of some locally grown spices, we realized we were going to the same place and he offered to show us the best way down the mountain. Always happy for a local guide, we enthusiastically accepted and headed off with the two yappy dogs in tow.
Along the way down, our guide gave us the quick history of the area, explaining how the Truku people were driven into this valley after the Japanese invaded Taiwan. In 1979, the Taiwanese government relocated most families to the area just outside the park, but a few were allowed to stay. One of these families was his aunt, who now runs the only hostel in the small village. There are no roads in and out of the village big enough for vehicles, so his role of this family business is making multiple trips a day up and down the mountain to get supplies for the hostel. All on foot. Wow.
We did our best to keep up with the guide as he lead us down the next Jurassic Park-esque section of the trail. Although it was all downhill, it required maneuvering massive boulders and narrow cliff-sides, so our legs took a pretty big toll. Luckily, our guide was very patient with us and even took cigarette breaks while he waited for us to catch up to him. Needless to say, we felt like the classic “out of shape Americans” a few times on this hike.
After about a mile of steep downhill, we reached the beginning of the Shakadang trail. On the way down, our guide told us of a secret spot where you could go swimming in the gorge. Upon arrival, he lead us right past a “No Entry” sign and showed us to the BEST part of the entire hike…. the swimming hole! After bidding our guide farewell, we ecstatically jumped into the cold, blue water and started frolicking around, so happy to have some relief from the heat. The water was the perfect temperature, the surrounding mountains were unreal, and the scenery looked like something out of a postcard. This was truly the swimming hole that dreams are made of.
We swam around for about an hour and finally dragged ourselves out of the water to finish our journey. This last portion turned out to be relatively flat, which our legs were very grateful for. The amazing views of Shakadang trail also helped this portion of the journey pass quickly. After about another hour of walking, we found ourselves back at the main road, only a short walk from our car at the Visitor’s Center.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
- Give yourself about six or seven hours for this hike to allow time to rest and/or play in the river. It was definitely the best part.
- There’s only one food stand along the entire trail, so make sure to pack in your own belongings.
- There’s no bathroom on the trail. Be prepared!